Wildman 4WD Track: Mary River National Park
Jacana at Play: Mary River Floodplains
Wildman 4WD Track: Mary River National Park
This is a great day trip from Darwin that provides a unique opportunity to experience the vast and truly breathtaking, expanses of the Mary River floodplains.
Thirty-Two kilometres of bush track that is accessible from the north or the south. The park board closes the tack in the wet season due to flooding of the track and the track is only open once it is navigable in the dry season. Signage at the start of the tract indicates that it is a grade 3 track (I could however not locate the NT parks grading system). I would grade it as a medium depending on how wet the track is (Victoria Public Land 4WD Tracks Classification). This track will disappoint if you are looking for a challenging four-wheel drive experience. However, if you are looking for a good of the beaten track experience with birdlife, game, and stunning landscape then this is the route to take.
“You should always be aware of the risk of a saltwater crocodile attack in all Top End waterways.”
The track provides unique access to the edge of the Mary River floodplains. Vistas demonstrate the vast extent of these wetlands. Skittish wallabies as well as shy and reclusive water buffalo are often encountered along the track. Olga’s watering hole and other water holes on the tract provide good viewing of the abundant waterbirds in the area.
Getting There
Travel along the Arnhem Highway in an easterly direction, about 19 km after Bark Hut Inn you will encounter the Point Stuart Rd on the left. This section of Point Stuart Rd is sealed with the turn-off to the Rockhole (16.5km) and then turn off to Wildman (25.2 km) from Arnhem Highway. If you take the Rockhole road travel along this unsealed road for 16 km then take the fork to the right towards the Rockhole, at the 18.9 km, and find the turnoff to the track on the right. If you take the northern entrance travel along the unsealed Wildman Rd for 3.3 km and find the turnoff to the track on your left.
What to Explore Around this Track
Connellan Lagoon
Couzens Lookout and Campground
Rockhole
Wildman Wilderness Lodge
Connellan Lagoon
Connellan lagoon is situated about 19km from the southern entrance of the track with a picnic table in the shade of a large tree at the edge of the lagoon. We encountered a large number of freshwater crocodiles in the shallow, clear water adjacent to the picnic spot. This would be a good stop for a late breakfast and to appreciate the beauty of the lagoon.
Couzens Lookout and Campgrounds
Situated near the southern entrance to the Wildman Track, this campground is situated on a hill well away from the edge of the Mary River. Several sites are available with a table and bench provided at most sites and the campground has a composting toilet. NOTE NO FRESH DRINKING WATER IS AVAILABLE. Camping at this site is for free and is on a first-come first-camp basis, no bookings can be made. The site is however seldom full. The lookout and the campsite are situated on a low hill that provides a great view over the billabong and surrounding wetlands. The lookout is a great spot to have a few drinks and watch the sunset over the wetlands.
Rockhole
Situated at the southern entrance to the Wildman Track, this billabong offers access to the Mary River and Corroboree Billabong. Limited access is available for land-based fishing but a firm dirt/gravel boat ramp is available for launching recreational vessels. Mary River Wetlands Cruise runs a tourist sightseeing boat from this site for more information contact Point Stuart Wilderness Lodge.
Wildman Wilderness Lodge
This lodge provides luxury bush accommodation in the form of cabins and safari-style tents. The centrally located main lodge houses the bar and restaurant with a spectacular view over the grassland around the lodge. The restaurant and bar are open to guests and visitors during specified hours for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. NOTE – the lodge is only operational during the Dry Season.
The Track
The track is made up of 32 km of two-wheel tracks and when approached from the south (near the Rockhole) it is only a short distance before you start skirting the Mary river floodplains. However, the true vastness of the plains only opens up around the 10 km mark. Billabongs with huge flocks of waterbirds are found around the mid-point on the track. A dry riverbed crossing is negotiated about 1 to 2 km before reaching Connellan lagoon (this could hold water early in the dry season?). At about the 19 km point you will get to a T-junction with a turn to the left and a short drive will take you to Connellan lagoon. From Connellan lagoon to the exit point on Wildman road, the track passes through bushland with tall trees and grass. A short section of the track is relatively sandy as you skirt the edge of a watering hole around 3 to 4 km after Connellan lagoon. The section near the end of the track around the 29 km mark passes along a dry riverbed, this section looks as if it may be challenging when water is present. It was however completely dry in June when we crossed.
The track is well signposted with typical parks board signage. The track is very obvious over most sections and in any areas where it is less obvious it is marked with blue arrows on pickets (arrows like those found on hiking trails). Overall the track was not very corrugated or rutted and made for a pleasant drive. Take the time to enjoy the sites before, during, and after your journey.
